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By Erick Martell (*)
Alejandro Magallanes, also known as Alejo, is co-founder and current director of Cervecería Loba in Guadalajara, one of the most awarded breweries in Mexico, and also president of the Mexican Craft Brewers Association (ACERMEX).
In 2019, Cervecería Loba was named the best North American brewery at England’s International Beer Challenge, the second most important competition in the industry worldwide, taking the crown from a US brewery for the first time in 17 years.
This interview took place in September 2020. Titles and figures are as of that date.
How and When Did Your Love for Beer Begin?
The real first story can’t be shared on social media, but what I can tell you is that a cousin used to invite us to his house in TX when I was barely a teenager, and since he was already old enough to buy alcohol he would bring beer for the cookouts. One time I went with him to buy it and saw lots of brands and styles I had never heard of. By sheer luck I picked a Red Ale and a Stout, Kilkenny and Guinness to be exact, and when I tasted them it was love at first sip.
Every chance I got I brought as many as I could back to Mexico and kept them under my bed, taking them out only on the most special occasions. Nobody here talked about those beer styles. It was 1992.
A couple of years later, in 1995, I lived in London; there I kept learning and discovering new styles.
At First, Did You Ever Think You Could Make a Living in the Beer World?
I used to work in fashion. While I was there I didn’t think about working in beer, but once I started on the dream of Loba there was no turning back. I went all in.
Besides Brewing, Have You Started Other Beer-Related Projects?
Restaurants and bars such as 3 Gallos and LaCer (the beer collective).
Do You Have Any Professional Training, or How Did You Learn to Brew?
My partner taught me, and everything else I’ve learned has come from brewers who pass through Loba, our beer consultant and a lot of reading.
What Is Your Favorite Style and What Are the 3 Best Beers You Have Ever Tasted?
Barley Wine is my favorite style, but strangely the 3 best beers I’ve tasted are other styles. Sang Noir from Cascade. Sueño Rosa from Cervecería Loba (maybe it’s the love I have for it, but I truly feel that way) and Gueuze Cantillon.
What Do You Think About Beerfluencers and Beer Geeks?
I really admire the passion and time they give to the industry. They are a very important part of the beer world, and I have nothing but the deepest respect and gratitude for them.
What Are the Main Qualities You Look for in a Beer, Regardless of Style?
That it is well made. Quality without being boring, and something special that makes me feel or appreciate something different.
What Do You Recommend to People Who Like to Review Beer, Whether They Are Professionals (BJCP, Cicerone) or Not?
To study more technical subjects. I have often read reviews by well-trained people, even authorities, who can mistake a flaw for an intention or let something slip by because they lack the technical knowledge to back them up when it comes to tasting beer.
Recommendations on how to fix the problems found are also very helpful for the people who make the beer, especially if they are just starting out.
They Say the Brewing Industry Is Very Close-Knit. Do You Think That’s True, and Why?
It’s absolutely true. As with everything, there are exceptions and people who don’t contribute and turn their backs, but in general brewers always see each other as colleagues and not as competition. Breweries help each other out every day. Within the associations it’s the rule.
Any Advice for Someone Who Wants to Start a Beer Business, Whether a Brewery, Distributor or Consultancy?
If your interest is in producing and launching a brand, first ask for advice from a brewer with years of experience. People think it’s a great business when in reality it’s more passion and very little business. As long as the tax framework doesn’t change, it will be very hard for breweries to be profitable.
For a distributor, I would recommend patience and resources, because although it’s a very good business, you need a lot of working capital to cope with payment terms and growth.
If it’s on-premise sales, my advice is to think either of a different, original model that is very hard to copy so it stays unique, or of a model that is easy to franchise. The latter are very profitable. Anyone who wants to understand the numbers behind that model can read how much a Modelorama costs and how much it earns, the most widespread franchised beer outlet in Mexico.
What Are the Best Books You Recommend About the World of Beer?
There are so many, but 2 of the ones I’ve enjoyed most are The New IPA and American Sour Beers.
Is There Anyone in the Beer World You Admire, and Why?
Charlie Johnson of Ronin Fermentation, our beer consultant. He’s the best brewer I’ve ever met. Every conversation with him is a real learning experience.
(*) Erick Martell is a BJCP judge at the Certified rank and holds the Cicerone Certified Beer Server credential. He completed the Concise Course in Brewing Technology at the Siebel Institute and currently works as an academic advisor for @escuelacervecera. You can find him on Instagram.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
1. Who is Alejandro Magallanes?
Alejandro Magallanes, known as Alejo, is co-founder and director of Cervecería Loba in Guadalajara, Jalisco. Before beer he worked in fashion, and at the time of this interview, in September 2020, he was president of the Mexican Craft Brewers Association (ACERMEX).
2. What is ACERMEX?
ACERMEX is the Mexican Craft Brewers Association, the organization that brings together the country’s independent breweries and represents them before the industry and the authorities. Magallanes was its president in 2020.
3. What award did Cervecería Loba win in 2019?
In 2019 Loba was recognized as the best brewery in North America at the International Beer Challenge, a competition based in England. It was the first time in 17 years that the title did not go to a US brewery.
4. What is Alejandro Magallanes’ favorite beer style?
Barley Wine. Among the three best beers he has tasted, he names Sang Noir from Cascade Brewing, Sueño Rosa from Loba itself and the Gueuze from Cantillon.
5. What advice does he give to anyone who wants to start a brewery?
First ask a brewer with years of experience for advice, because the business is more passion than profit as long as Mexico’s tax framework stays the same. For distribution he recommends working capital and patience, and for a venue, either an original model that is hard to copy or one that is easy to franchise.
Recommended
- Interview with Luis Larios, co-founder of Cervecería Fauna
- The 6 most popular craft beer styles in Mexico
